ahylandmakeup

the musings of a makeup artist and beauty fanatic

Tag: mac

September Favourites 2013

September was definitely ‘beauty central’. For some reason last month I accumulated rather a lot of new beauty products *locks up bank card and throws away the key* – I’m going to put it down to drafting in products that are necessities for the season change. Yes, necessary…

September favourites 2013

MAC Pressed Pigment ‘Deeply Dashing’ £17 – MAC’s traditional pigments are top sellers due to intense colour pay off and high metallic finishes. Despite this they are a little messy to use, so these pressed formulas are a real winner for practicality alone. This together with its rich chocolate colour laced with super reflective silver sparkle, I was like a moth to a flame with this shadow. Smooth in texture almost feeling like a cream, it’s easy to blend and incredibly versatile – you can use it dry with a blending brush for a soft finish, use it wet for a modern and striking glossy finish, or use it with your finger dabbed over the top of a smokey eye for some added texture. I’ve been enjoying using it on the outer corner of the eyes for some added drama and depth. The glitter in this is very fine making it the ‘grown up’ and sophisticated way to wear some sparkle that is really rather stunning. 

No7 Precision Lips Pencil ‘Nude’ £6.75, Boots – It feels like I’ve been on the hunt for the perfect ‘nude, your lips but better’ lip liner shade, and after flicking through the Lisa Eldridge youtube archives I think I may have found it. This liner was actually designed by Eldridge herself whilst she was still Creative Director at the Boots brand, and it’s graced the lips of many a model and celebrity face. It’s got the balance of of brown and pink undertones spot on making it ideal for everyday use, disappearing seamlessly into the lips. It’s smooth with a self sharpening nib making it easy to get great precision in altering the shape of your lips whilst still managing to look ‘believable’. It’s not too drying either so is comfortable to wear all over the lips as a base or stain. This has helped massively in making my thin top lip look a lot fuller. Rosie Huntington-Whitely eat your heart out.

Charlotte Tilbury Powder & Sculpt Brush £35, Selfridges – I have a bit of a thing when it comes to makeup brushes. I need all of them and about 5 of each. A little ridiculous I know. After following Tilbury’s career rather enthusiastically I was desperate to get my hands on the highly anticipated collection, and this brush in particular. I’ve done a separate post about her new collection, including this brush, so wont go into too much depth, but all you need to know is that this is one of the softest brushes I have ever felt and is perfect for precision powdering on the T-Zone. Never caking on too much product because of the hair quality and its small size, you get an even airbrushed finish. It’s also great for highlighting the top of the cheek bones and contouring with powder products due to its fine point, giving you model worthy cheekbones in a couple of sweeps.

Pixi Glow Tonic £16, Pixi Store – Anyone who knows me is aware that I have a strong and loving relationship with Biologique Recherche Lotion P50. However, with news that this is being wiped off shelves in the UK, I’ve had to reach for alternative exfoliating toners. Weeps. This offering from Pixi is a lot more gentle that P50, with no stinging or stripping feeling so making it perhaps more suitable for dry and sensitive skins. I’ve mainly be using this in the morning as it feels more refreshing than P50 and has a gorgeous fruity scent with a hit of rose, making it nice and hydrating too. It contains fruit and glycolic acids to gently exfoliate the skin keeping it smooth and clear of congestion, and at £16 you can’t really go wrong.

Weleda Skin Food £8.95, Liberty –  So I have to confess, I am pretty lazy when it comes to body care. I’m just too impatient. However I do have incredibly dry feet and legs and I’ve struggled to find a really great moisturising treatment. This one has really impressed me though. An all purpose moisturising treatment that can be used anywhere on the body and face for dry and rough skin made from organic ingredients. Although it is a thick cream, it sinks into the skin nicely without leaving a heavy greasy residue. With citrus, rosemary and almond oils it smells fresh and herbal, confirming the natural content. It’s massively improved the dry patches on my legs which can get quite itchy and it’s smoothed over the cracked skin on my heels. It’s fed my skin the food it needs…

Laura Mercier Fresh Fig Signature Candle £29, Space NK – Despite it still feeling like late summer in the air, I have been itching to reach for all things autumn. Scent is a powerful thing, and there is nothing I love more than rich and earthy scents to get me excited for the colder months. Fig is one of my favourite scents of all, and this is divine. One of the more sweeter fig scents I’ve found, it is incredibly rich and burns beautifully. It fills the entire room after just minutes of it burning and is so warm and inviting. Although it is strong, the freshness of Fig cuts through it so it’s not sickly or overwhelming. I believe this particular packaging was from their christmas collection last year but the candle in its original packaging is still available.

September Favourites. Some of the stand out products from a rather heavy beauty month. These ones did good.

The Natural Lip Lacquers

Natural Lippies

I’m the first to admit that when it comes to trying new things I’m not all that spontaneous. The most daring I ever get with my makeup is trying a slightly different shade of brown on the eyes or a peachier pop on the cheeks than I’m used to. Somebody stop me. And this is certainly no different when it comes to lipstick. No matter what makeup look I’m sporting, the one thing I know I’ll be wearing is a natural lip. The whole ‘my lips but better’ look is something I opt for every makeup application time. As a result, I’ve tried and tested a fair few natural lacquers, so here are the three that reign supreme…

Natural Lipsticks

Chanel Rouge Coco Shine, 54 ‘Boy’ £24. My favourite. Light, sheeny pinky goodness. Possibly my first ever Chanel makeup purchase, it’s permanently in my makeup bag. It’s incredibly smooth in texture so feels rather luxurious when applied (it is Chanel afterall). Now this is not a long wearing lipstick – it’s more of a tinted lip balm kind of thing, but it wears beautifully and is very hydrating so it’s comfortable to wear. The perfect ‘your lips with a touch of pink’.

MAC Lipstick ‘Patisserie’ £15. One that I have mentioned before in a monthly favourites and for good reason. A warmer toned neutral than Chanel’s offering, it has a soft gold shimmer running through it with more peachy undertones. Being one of MAC’s Lustre formulas, it’s sheer and smooth yet it’s very buildable. Like the Chanel Rouge Coco Shine, it doesn’t possess immense staying power, but because it’s such a natural shade, reapplying through the day is easy.

Bobbi Brown Sheer Lip Colour ‘Bobbi’ £19. Appropriately named. The latest addition to the natural pucker club. At first glance, this colour looks a little suspect. An almost grey toned latte brown. Sounds lovely. However, it is incredibly deceptive. Rumour has it Bobbi created this for herself so she could have ‘her perfect natural nude’. And it is just that. Silky and smooth, it blends seamlessly with your natural lip colour, leaving behind a gorgeous sheen. The perfect ‘sophisticated nude’.

My top three natural lip lacquers. The makeup items I know I’ll be layering on whether I’m feeling daring or not. Easy and flattering to wear with no risk of lipstick teeth. So pucker up ladies, natural is nice…

A Neutral Eyed Affair

Neutral Nude Eyes

If there is one thing I have an uncontrollable lust over *aside from the entire Tom Ford collection* it’s neutral toned eye makeup. You name it, I want it… and most likely have it. Mid tone warm brown? Mid tone ashy brown? Outer corner colours? Check check and check. It’s all in the Muji storage. Here’s the best of my large average sized collection…

UD Naked 2

Urban Decay Naked 2 Palette: to any beauty know it all, this little beauty needs no intro. At £36 for 12 incredibly good quality shadows that anyone from beginner to pro can use, it’s a steal in my opinion. Covering your every makeup look need, day to night, 365 days a year, Urban Decay have made it simple. Most of the colours are metallic (never an issue with me, ship me the shimmer) but with the use of a trusty blending brush they’re still subtle enough for day wear. YDK, Snakebite and Suspect are my preferred colours. Pigmented and smooth, it’s no wonder as to why this palette is solidly in the beauty hall of fame.

MAC shadows

MAC shadows £12 each: we all love a MAC shadow. I’m no exception. Obviously. My pick of neutrals are L to R –

  • Wedge – a matte, mid tone warm brown perfect for the crease
  • Naked Lunch – a gorgeous pink toned champagne shimmer
  • All That Glitters – similar to Naked Lunch but with a richer red/bronze undertone
  • Patina – a grey mid toned brown with gold shimmer
  • Satin Taupe – a purple toned dark brown with taupe shimmer

For a super quick ‘I over slept’ kind of day, Naked Lunch swept all over the lid with Wedge through the crease is what I find myself reaching for. For more definition, Satin Taupe added to the outer corner smokes it up for a sultry yet soft look. I do find MAC shadows tend to crease on me, but a quick slick of NARS Pro Prime Smudge Proof Eye Base sorts that out.

The Creamy Ones: still a relatively new concept in the world of everyday makeup. With brands left right and centre churning out all things in cream formula, they’re proving to be a hit. Longer lasting than shadow, full of pigment and no need for brushes. Yes Please.

Cream Shadows

  • Maybelline 24hr Colour Tattoo – I have the shade ‘On and On Bronze’. Definitely more of a taupe shade with gold shimmer, it’s what I’m reaching for on a daily basis for some subtle smokey definition. It doesn’t fade, it doesn’t crease, and at only £4.99, there’s even more reason to love it.
  • Bobbi Brown Longwear Cream Shadow £18 – ‘Stone’ is divine. A purple mid toned brown with a subtle sheen. It looks a little suspect in the pot, but trust me, wash this on this lid and through the crease and you’ll wonder what you ever did before you used it. The perfect ‘I’ve got no makeup on my eyes’ shade that adds that little something to your look.
  • Bobbi Brown Longwear Cream Shadow Stick £20 – ‘Golden Bronze’. Wow. A cream texture packed in to a pencil form making this ridiculously easy to use. Draw onto your lid, smudge with your finger and you’re good to go. A stunning mid tone bronze that is a 1 minute smokey eye wonder lasting you all day. Literally.

I’ve come clean about my not so modest affair with neutral, brown eye shadows. And with a growing list of newbies that I’d like to add to the clan including Burberry’s ‘Pale Barley’ and ‘Midnight Brown’, I don’t see it fading any time soon. Sorry I’m not sorry.

Red: The Power Lip

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The epitome of parisian chic and hollywood glamour. There is nothing more classic or powerful in makeup than the Red Lip. However it does have a reputation for being notoriously intimidating and frankly tricky to wear. So how to go about it?

There are typically 3 undertones to a red: blue/pink, orange and neutral. Each tone is better suited to different skin tones.

Cherry Lush

  • Blue/Pink: these cooler tones in a red traditionally work well on a more pale and cooler skin tone. The warmer you try to go with a red on these skin tones, the more stark and off set it can look, as though something just doesn’t quite match. They work naturally and in harmony with the cooler skin tones. Tom Ford ‘Cherry Lush’ £36 (a price tag making it a birthday or payday treat) is a vibrant blue/pink toned red. On the border of being a powerful fuschia, it has a smooth satin finish and makes the teeth look insanely white. These cooler red tones can work well on more yellow skin tones however, really helping to lift any sallowness and brighten the complexion.

TF Wild Ginger & MAC Lady Danger

  • Orange: this warm and vibrant tone of red works perfectly on those with yellow and/or olive undertones in the skin. They look incredible on blondes too and warm up the skin. Tom Ford ‘Wild Ginger’ £36 is a powerful red with a satin finish. It’s super comfortable to wear and easy to apply, making you almost forget you’re wearing such a striking lip colour. For a more matte finish, an absolute classic is MAC ‘Lady Danger’ £14. A vibrant orange red that is very long lasting, it’s the ultimate statement lip.

TF Scarlet Rouge

  • Neutral: as the name suggests, this has the equal balance between orange and blue undertones and works well on all skin tones. The ‘classic’ red as it were. Tom Ford ‘Scarlet Rouge’ £36, again leaves a satin finish and a slick of true red on the lips. Parisian girl down to a tee. If matte is your thing, MAC ‘Ruby Woo’ £14 is possibly the most famous red lipstick there is. One of those colours that seems to work on every skin tone and packs incredible pigment for an eye popping red lip. Another cult neutral red is NARS ‘Red Lizard’ £18.50. This is the perfect classic red for darker skin tones.

If you’re someone who is hesitant about diving into red lips but finds the idea of them intriguing, there are lots of lighter alternatives to try in the form of tinted balms and glosses. These are easier in application and maintenance and a more casual take on the red lip.

Lighter Reds

Revlon Lip Butter ‘Candy Apple’ £7.99 is an example of a tinted lip balm. A light, smooth texture that for something labelled as a ‘sheer tint’ is definitely not that sheer. It packs a generous amount of colour but is easier than other red lipsticks to tone down by patting in with your finger. Bobbi Brown ‘Hollywood Red’ Lip Gloss £17 is a slightly pink toned red that creates the look of fuller lips due to it’s gorgeous sheen and creamy colour pay off. My favourite of the sheer red pickings is Tom Ford (quelle surprise) ‘Lost Cherry’ Ultra Shine Lip Gloss £32. An amazing non sticky formula that wears comfortably on the lips for an ultra glossy red hue.

Lip Brushes

Lip Brush offerings (L to R) from Tom Ford and MAC

Now I’m not a massive follower of the many ‘rules’ of makeup, but in terms of application of a red lip, there is some truth in what the rule books state. To gain a super bold and perfectly shaped lip, using a lip brush is 100% essential. A square tip brush will give you better control and accuracy. I find starting at the outer corners of the mouth then pulling the colour in to the centre the easiest and neatest way. Using a brush also makes the color last longer, as the motion of working the colour into the lip shape almost imprints the colour as a stain.

Something else that the makeup rule book states is that using a lip liner is a necessity. I don’t always stand by this as there are other ways to get a long lasting, precise lip through blotting in between layers and using a brush. However, if you’re new with it, using a lip liner will help in getting the shape right. MAC ‘Redd’ Lip Liner £11.50 is a neutral red that works with most red lipsticks to give an easy to follow boundary and the chance to alter your lip shape.

Red: The Power Lip. A guide on how to wear the hollywood smile in your own red carpet manner. Cue the imaginary wind machines whipping through your hair…

How to: Trademark Glow

Aside from being asked what skin care I use, the most asked question I get is ‘how do you get your skin so glowy?” Seeing as the dewy, fresh complexion is an obligatory staple in the beauty world and looks set to stay for some time, I thought it was perhaps time to let people in on my glow.

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It comes down to two things: base & highlight.

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Base: there is one stand alone winner that I quite frankly could not live without. One of the most highly anticipated launches of 2012 – Yves St Laurent Le Teint Touche Eclat, £29. The foundation version of their cult product Touche Eclat. YSL describe it as “Illuminating foundation. Dimensional radiance. Weightless perfection.” They’re not lying either. It’s been the only foundation I use for nearly a year now and I never fail to receive a compliment about my skin whilst wearing it. A gel texture fluid formulated with no opaque powders that are the basis of most foundations, it brings a lorry load of luminosity and leaves the most gorgeous finish. A light to medium coverage that evens out the skin tone and highlights the contours of the face, 2 pumps of this and ta-dah, you have ah-mazing skin. I cannot talk highly enough of it. MAC Face & Body £26.50 is an absolute must have in a makeup artists kit. A water based multi function foundation that’s buildable and long wearing due to its industrial strength film former is a close second to my true love. It doesn’t pack as much luminosity as the YSL, but when mixed with MAC Strobe Liquid £22.50, a lightweight lotion with soft focus diffusers and iridescent pigments to restore radiance you can certainly compete for top spot on the glow dial. An incredibly natural looking foundation and just a bloomin’ good pick. A cheaper alternative is Rimmel’s Wake Me Up Foundation, £7.99.

Highlight: to add that little extra glow (yes, we want more) apply some on the high points of the face to really bring it alive. I can’t go without highlighter, it’s a daily essential these days. MAC cream colour base in Pearl, £14.50 is probably my most reached for. A light cream texture that’s easy to blend and leaves a gorgeous pearl sheen that looks seamless with the skin. In general I prefer cream textures as they look more natural and they’re nicer to work with. Powder formulas can look frosty if the balance isn’t spot on. Using my middle and ring fingers to pat and blend this onto the top of the cheekbones, bridge of the nose and under the brow bone is quick to do yet so effective. One pot of this stuff has lasted me an entire year so it’s great value for money! Tom Ford Shade & Illuminate, £55 (ouch) is something that I use sparingly but something that I can’t hide my love for. The highlight shade in this duo is unlike any highlighter on the market. It contains no shimmer or glitter in it. Nada. It almost looks invisible on the skin, like a clear gel so there’s a danger of using too much of this. But it’s absolutely beautiful. Radiance perfection.

So now you know what to rush out and buy, I am still to let on one more thing. The Application.

Base: to achieve an even and undetectable finish I like using my fingers or a synthetic buffing brush. 

Full-Coverage-Face-Brush

My current brush of choice for base is the Bobbi Brown Full Coverage Face, £29.50. Small, compact and makes foundation application and blending almost too easy.

Highlight: fingers. Always fingers. I never ever use a brush for cream/liquid highlighters. The best way to make the highlight look seamless and as thought its coming from the skin itself is to use your fingers. The heat helps to melt the product and they’re just the best makeup tools. Good thing they come naturally to us.

So my answer to the number 1 question: “how do you get your skin so glowy?” has been published. By no means revolutionary or hard to re-create, but something that is to those who know me my *no longer* copyrighted “trademark glow”.